Abdul drives his taxi

ARRIVING IN CAIRO Wed 4 Feb
The Giza pyramids loomed up on our port side as we landed at Cairo airport joining a mass tourist haj that culminated when we finally reached the Giza site 4 days later. First experience of haggling and touts came with the effort to grab a taxi, finally set off with Abdul whose rate was 60le, a quarter the others. 60Le soon became 70 as we paid his parking fee leaving the airport. His beat-up Peugot local taxi tore through the traffic, rather hairy as the door didn’t close properly, only one ragged seat belt in front. And he was on his mobile phone and giving us a simultaneous commentary, not looking at the traffic.

Traffic lane markings are only there for decoration. Red lights are merely a suggestion to stop in this city of 18 million, most of whom seem to be pedestrians dodging across anywhere.
The King Hotel’s glory days are far behind it. But we like its breakfasts-the foul is delicious! Fava beans, fresh capsicum, tomato, cuke, lemon juice and spices-
and interesting location near markets and what appears a mysterious govt building with comings and goings all night. Another highlight is the watchdog sleeping in a depression on the roof of its owner’s blue car.
With an only slightly weary Barry and Suzanne we set off for our first Cairene walk, determined to beat jet lag by staying awake till dark at least. This took us first to the Opera, a magnificent newish building which far surpasses the Sydney Opera House…we bought tickets to a concert the following night, see later. Also, the great quest for a real cup of coffee was disappointed at the coffee shop here, our first experience of the great Egyptian rip-off, aka being “gypped”. Then on through the centre: Midan Tahrir where we lunched reasonably at the Felfela except the foul was terrible! Another fascinating street was Sharia 26 July in historic Zamalek, fun but ripped off paying five times the price for water, being desperately thirsty.

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