Nafplion is ridiculously historic and also beautiful.

Nafplion is ridiculously historic – link to album

Nafplion was the first capital of Greece after the Independence War 1821-1828, and is only a stone’s throw from Mykinis where Agamemnon and others planned the Trojan War, in his Palace past the Lion Gate. The whole Argos peninsula reeks of history.

We made extensive use of Greece’s terrific bus system to get to Epidavros etc from our base in the cosy Pension Dafni.

The Dafni is only metres from where the first president of liberated Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was assassinated outside Saint Spyridon church.

Towering above the old town where we were staying is the fortress of Kastro Palamida, spectacular anytime day and night, and which we enjoyed exploring for a few hours.

A “highlight” was crawling inside the cell where revolutionary general Theodoros Kolokotronis was imprisoned by his fellow Greeks during the Independence War.

But what is Greece without food and wine? We soon found a reliable “local”, the O Haris Psistaria! Inexpensive and fresh salads, calamari and kebabs washed down with retsina or kokkino krasi, followed by Greek (really Turkish) coffee.

Sitting in the spring sunshine opposite Kolokotronis’ grandiloquent equestrian statue,

watching the passing parade. Such sights as the motorcyclists sporting their helmets as large bangles,

or Greek parking: “Ï’m just double parking here but it’s OK because I’ve got my hazard lights on!”

Note the hold-up to the inbound Athens bus

But despite wry comments, we loved the Greeks and were shown great kindness and hospitality.

When can we return? 2011?
March 2009